Day 22: Melrose to Murray Town 16.53km

Got up early as usual and got dressed and packed up. It was blowing and rainy out so I sat down and had a couple of bowls of cereal hoping for the rain to clear. The forecast said it wasn't going to clear until after lunch and even then its not assured. So I get into the wet gear and head off. 

It drizzled and blew a chilly breeze the whole way to Murray Town. The walk took me through some roads and paddocks. In one area I came across a house falling into disrepair and it makes you think of who and what went on there. 

I know the house we built in Charters Towers the concrete footing holding a retaining wall has Frances' and Bretts' prints in it. Years go by and people may have the same thoughts as to who and what these people did all those years ago. 

It's one of the reasons I like visiting cemeteries and reading the head stones. Just for an instant in time them and their lives are remembered. 

I Arrived at Murray Town early as it was only 16 or so kilometres. For $10 you get to set up and have a shower at the oval. As a surprise they also have kitchenette area with kettle, microwave and small oven. On a cold day the shower was welcome and for lunch I used the little oven to toast some cheese on my tomato and chilli tuna. Yum. 

Later in the afternoon two young men, Justin and Jonathan from Sydney rolled up. They are taking about as long as me to walk it but from South to North. Not doing more than about 25 kilometre average. They were a pleasant distraction for the evening. I set up the tent in the shed to keep the wind out.

Day 21: Zero Day - Melrose

It was still cold and windy with occasional showers but I didn't care whilst I looked out the window at it all. I walked around town as its not that big and it does fire up apparently, every so often with those queer mountain biking people. Apparently in two weekends they also have a king of the hill race (on foot) up Mt remarkable. 

It has a mountain biking shop here and it was funny to walk past the first time when Belinda and Isabelle were here and see a $3000 mountain bike in the window and more expensive ones at the back. You could also hire the $3000 one for $75 a day. I was tempted to see if my arse got sore as much on a really expensive bike. No bollards in front of the window. Mustn't tell those city slicker snatch and grabbers! 

Sorted out the pack and dried out all the gear as the day went on watched a crap load of television and generally slacked around. 

The next leg is a 7 day leg with a one night stopover then another 5 day leg to Burra for the next zero in more civilised area. From there to Crystal Brook will take me to what is recognised as the last of the Flinders Ranges. Then the track moves east. Another pub meal tonight. Not as big as last night. Might have an entree size.

Day 20: Stony Creek to Melrose 22.5km

The plan worked a treat so I had knocked off one fairly decent climb and about 4 kilometres of the days journey with perfect spot to camp. The was enough rain to get some of the small creeks to run but not enough to cause me any problems. The walk follows a track, fence and creek through what looks like old pasture now part of Mt Remarkable park. On the left was still private property. With all the creeks flowing it was a pleasant albeit cold morning. 

Wind was still blowing with the occasional strong gusts and light occasional showers. Just chilly enough to make my nose dribble most of the day. I did see some deer but the one time I could have got a shot the phone failed me. I bought the gloves as they are supposed to work on the touchscreen and most times they do until I wanted to take a fast photo. I am sure these phones are designed to make sure it goes into selfie mode at the merest thought you might want to take one. I have many shots of my head instead of the scenery. Anyway I have included the shot of the spot where 4 deer stopped and stared at me for 40 seconds then run over the hill as I farted about with the phone. Enjoy. 

I saw a few more deer but they were much further away and moved off as soon as they spotted me which seemed to before I spotted them. The walk is a steady climb and then all that is standing in your way is Mt Remarkable. The path stops at a gate to private land and a ridge line of about 150 metres on a gentle slope down meets another gate from the Private Property to National Park. Obviously someone at Heysen didn't negotiate well as this is not the way we go. 

We go for an 400 metre walk down, and I mean straight down and then up and I mean straight up. Its at least a 100 metre loss of height and then the 100 metre gain again on the other side. Well that part buggered me. Then its just another continuing climb of the last 250 metres to the summit of Mt Remarkable at least that is over 1.5 kilometres. 

Mt Remarkable was named from distance because it was not named for its remarkable views. There are none from the summit just trees. A bit of a sit then a 6.5 kilometre track with a 650 metre drop in elevation to Melrose. I felt that in the knees that night. Wind was blowing a gale in Melrose but I dropped into the pub to book my dinner spot and then onto Wozzas B+B. He had the fire going and I had picked the room opposite the fireplace so if you leave the door open the room heats up. 

We stayed here at the ANZ room on the way, now I am in the SA Bank room this time. Had Vita Brits for afternoon tea and I was sure it was half a pig on my plate when I went to the pub. They have big serves. 

The wind blew all night in Melrose and had 8mm rain overnight and I didnt care. I got up at 4.30am and put another log on the fire. No bacon or beans.

  

Day 19: Horrocks Pass to campsite past Stony Creek via Willmington 24km

Getting up in the morning there was a light mist in the air but the wind was still blowing strong. As I had walked so far I had only 15 or 16 kilometres till the next scheduled stop I decided to bypass into Wilmington for a breakfast. So It was a quick pack-up and head up to the road. Wilmington is 3.5 kilometres down the road off trail. As I walked in I was worried there was no cafe. There was a closed pizzeria and a lolly shop that had chips but finally I came across the cafe. They had bacon and eggs for $9 and with a fire going and out of the wind, it was a wonderful hour spent. 

After some breakfast it was another 3 kilometres back to the trail and then up to Stony Creek campsite. I tasted the water in the tank and it tasted like something was dead in the tank. I still had a fair it of water and even though it didn't quite work out last night I decided to push on further and see what comes up. 

I only went about 4 kilometres further but ended up following a creek away from the track to come across a flat sheltered spot. The wind was still howling across the top but I only felt it as a stiff breeze occasionally when the bigger gusts went through. 

The trick in picking a spot was to make sure I was far enough away from those widow makers falling. I did send Belinda a quick text to enquire about the amount of rain expected as I was on the bend of a creek fed by those deep gorge creeks In the end it was enough rain to give it a bit of flow.

Day 18 The Midnight Dash

The decision to move was a fairly easy one as it appeared a second front was coming through. I had to wait for a lull in the wind and jump out and retie the tent down enough that I could let go and move to pack everything away. There is a method to pulling the tent down where I can pack away all the inner first and leave the fly and groundsheet. Then it was a mad dash to pack those and the poles away before I got hit with another gust. I then had to decide what I was going to do. I had seen a shed down in a valley but I couldn't work out a safe path down with only the light of the head torch. 

So I decided to follow the trail and hope it dropped into a sheltered gully where I cold set up again. I could move off the ridge east but that would have meant just sitting on a hill for 7 hours out of the wind. 

I needed flat ground for the tent. So off I went following the fence lines and rocky paddocks that I love with just the light from my head torch and a wind trying to blow me over every 5 minutes. About an hour in I could see the lights of Port Augusta to my right and the lights of Wilmington in front and to the right. The concern was I kept getting closer to Wilmington and then the lights began to move over my left shoulder. Couldn't bring a map out so i just had to trust the line and eventually I must have swung left and the lights moved more in front of my left shoulder. Saw some glowing eyes and wondered what they may belong to then suddenly 100's of eyes on my left looked at me. It was a flock of sheep. They look really evil in the dark!!! 

I went across a hilltop and came across a a rock cairn which I can only think is a lookout over Wilmington. About midnight I started dropping off a steep hill and I saw a car drive along the road. So I know I had finally reached Horrocks Pass. I passed through a gully where the wind died off completely and over another hill that takes you to the pass only to see the wind was howling up the pass. So I returned over the hill and setup in the middle of a vehicle track and finally got some sleep.

Day 18: Mt Brown 23km

Got up early to tackle the 3.5 kilometre walk to Mt Brown summit. What a difference a graded walk trail gives you. You can get a steady pace and rhythm going not the 10 pacesl up stop and have a blow and go again. And the rocks are on the side of the path and you can actually look around and walk at the same time. I met a man coming down had a chat and he informed me that he was the one that put the signs up at the trail head at Parachilna Gorge. Bought and paid for by himself as he didn't think the original signs were good enough. The summit was cold and breezy. I stopped to have breakfast and fill out the logbook at the top. I think this is my fourth visit and I was able to look back in the book at our previous visits. So Belinda has been 3 times. 

From there there is a steep descent down a ridge line following the ubiquitous fenceline. Because I had walked a little further yesterday I was at Catninga Shed early. They charge $25 and it is just a tin shed. I decided to push on and try and find a camp and shorten the next 33 kilometre day a little. The walk through this country I knew was going to be hard as it is all private property, therefore fence lines and station tracks all the way. There are a few really steep drops and some very sharp climbs and it was a tough slog with 5 litres of water on as I assumed I was going to dry camp.(ie no access to water except what I carry) I had picked a spot on the map that I wanted to get to and when I reached there it was about 2.30pm I made the fateful decision to push on. It was only a little further on I stopped and looked at the general direction of the route and saw it just involved bare hills. Not very promising when looking for a sheltered spot and now would be the time the trail follows a series of ridge lines with little dips and gullies. At about 4.30pm I was looking west at a dark buildup of clouds and sent Belinda a message to check the weather. Nothing too severe according to the website. A front with a little rain. Most of it south of me. 

I found a spot and set up the tent. The forecast said winds WSW so I angled the tent as best I could on the patch of ground climbed inside to ride out the rain. The initial front came through with a bit more oomph than I expected and the winds were from more WNW. I was handling weather OK then a wind gust came through and suddenly, the roof of the tent touches my nose. The whole tent was being blown flat. The gust passed and the tent springs back and I race out and repeg the tent and now I spend the next half hour holding the tent upright from the wind which is blowing directly from the side. The initial front passes I square everything back up and fall asleep. I haven't unpacked everything I am still in my walking clothes and all my night gear is still in the waterproof bag. 

I wake up hear rain and pick up the phone and look at the weather and see there is supposed to be another front at 8.30pm I started repacking my pack then and another gust hits the tent and it pull 2 stakes out and throws the outside skin and now I have rain coming through one side of the tent. I managed to get a walking pole propped up on that side to support the roof of the tent instead of my foot and then started packing in earnest. I dressed in all my wet weather gear an packed everything else into th pack leaving only the tent and groundsheet. It was then a waiting game for a lull in the wind and then mad rush to pull everything down and packed away before another gust came. Once done I put on the head torch and tried to see how far I had to go to get off the ridge and out of the wind. It was couple of hours and at midnight I finally dropped into a gully just before Horrocks Pass. I set up the tent in the middle of the track and had a blissful sleep. Kennys' midnight dash is an epic all its own. I will try to remember the details later. Suffice to say I am better aware of these ridge lines and weather now